Flowering Cherries

While the briefness of their glory has to be acknowledged, cherries really are the hardy spring-flowering trees for temperate climate gardens. I can think of no others, apart from their close Prunus relatives and some of the magnolias that even come close to rivalling flowering cherries for sheer weight of bloom and vibrance of colour.

The genus Prunus, to which the cherries, plums, almonds, apricots and peaches belong, includes around 430 species spread over much of the northern temperate regions and has a toehold in South America. Although including a few evergreen species, such as the well-known cherry laurel (Prunus laurocerasus), the genus is mainly deciduous and generally hardy to the frosts likely to occur in most New Zealand gardens.

The genus Prunus is widely recognised as being divided into 5 or 6 subgenera, though some botanists prefer to recognise these as distinct genera. The subgenus cerasus is the one to which the cherries belong. This group includes a wide variety of species, many of which are not highly ornamental. The species which are of most interest to gardeners are the Chinese and Japanese cherries, not only because they tend to be the most attractive, but also because they tend to be reasonably compact, often have attractive autumn foliage as well as spring flowers and because centuries of development in oriental gardens have produced countless beautiful cultivars.

The Japanese recognise two main groups of flowering cherries: the mountain cherries or yamazakura and the temple or garden cherries, the satozakura. The mountain cherries, which tend to have simple flowers, are largely derived from the original Mountain Cherry (Prunus serrulata var. spontanea), Prunus subhirtella and Prunus incisa. They are mainly cultivated for their early-blooming habit, which is just as well because their rather delicate display would be overwhelmed by the flamboyance of the garden cherries.

The garden cherries are the result of much hybridisation, mostly unrecorded, so we can't be exactly sure of their origins. Prunus serrulata (in its lowland form) and Prunus subhirtella also feature largely in their background. The other major influences are Prunus sargentii, Prunus speciosa, Prunus apetala and possibly the widespread Bird Cherries (Prunus avium and Prunus padus). The result of these old hybrids and modern developments is the wealth of forms that burst into bloom in our gardens every spring.

Regretfully, that complex parentage and those centuries of development and countless cultivars combined with Western misunderstandings of Japanese names and multiple introductions of the same plants under different names has led to considerable confusion with the names of flowering cherries.

Most of the popular garden plants are lumped together under three general headings:

1. Prunus subhirtella cultivars and hybrids;

2. Sato-zakura hybrids;

3. Hybrids no longer listed under parent species, being instead regarded as just to difficult to classify in that way.

But however you view them, flowering cherries have so much to offer that a little confusion over naming and identification shouldn't stand in the way of your including them in your garden. And now that many of them are available as container-grown plants that can be bought in flower, it's really just a matter of choosing the flowers you like.

Nevertheless, it's nice to know exactly which plant you're dealing with, so that you can be sure of its performance and size. While most of the larger nurseries and garden centres take care to supply plants that are true to type, make sure on first flowering that your cherries match their label descriptions. Misidentification, or perhaps misrepresentation, is common.

Plants

Prunus subhirtella cultivars and hybrids

Although the flowers of Prunus subhirtella are usually small and fairly simple, they appear from early winter well into spring, depending on the cultivar. Not only that, the cultivars themselves are long-flowering, often being in bloom for three weeks to a month. There are many cultivars, but most are similar to, or forms of the two main types listed below.

'Autumnalis' ( 'Jugatsu Sakura')

This is the most reliable winter-flowering form. It often starts to bloom in late April to early May and can carry flowers right through until mid September. It seldom produces a massive burst of bloom, rather sporadic clusters of flowers. This is just as well because the flowers are damaged by heavy frosts. The flowers of 'Autumnalis' are white to pale pink opening from pink buds; those of 'Autumnalis Rosea' are the same but with a deep pink centre.

'Pendula' ('Ito Sakura')

Prunus autumnalis tends to have weeping branches and 'Pendula' is a cultivar that emphasises this feature. Its flowers are usually pale pink and open in late winter to early spring. 'Falling Snow' is a cultivar with pure white flowers, while those of 'Rosea' are deep pink.

Sato-zakura hybrids

'Fugenzo' ( 'Shirofugen' )

'Fugenzo' was one of the first, if not the first, Japanese cherry to be grown in European gardens. It 's origins can be traced back to at least the 15th century. Its flowers are white to very pale pink, opening from pink buds, and when fully open how two conspicuous green leaf-like pistils in the centre of the flower.

'Taihaku'

'Taihaku' , also known as the great white cherry, has white flowers up to 5cm across. It grows to at least 8m tall with a wider spread and its flowers open at the same time as its bronze foliage expands, making a pleasant contrast. Thought to have been lost to cultivation, this cultivar was identified in Sussex garden from an old Japanese print.

'Ukon'

Although 'Ukon' mean yellowish, this cultivar has very distinctive pale green flowers and is one of the few unmistakable cherries. Its foliage develops purplish tones in autumn. The unusual flower colour contrasts well with the likes of 'Sekiyama'.

'Amanogawa' ('Erecta')

'Amanogawa' grows to around 6m tall, but only around 1.5m wide, and has pale pink single flowers with a freesia-like scent. It blooms in mid-spring and in autumn the foliage develops striking yellow and red tones.

'Shogetsu' ('Shugetsu', 'Shimidsu-zakura')

'Shogetsu' flowers late and produces pendant clusters of white, double flowers that open from pink buds. The flower clusters are up to 15cm long, which makes a tree in full bloom an arresting sight, especially considering that 'Shogetsu' is not a large tree and that its weeping habit means it can be covered in bloom right down to the ground.

'Sekiyama' ('Kanzan')

Certainly among the most popular cherries and most often sold under the name 'Kanzan', 'Sekiyama' has a relatively narrow, upright growth habit when young but eventually develops into a spreading 12m tall tree. Its flowers, which are pink and very fully double, are carried in pendulous clusters of five blooms. They open from reddish-pink buds. The foliage has a slight red tint.

'Ariake' ('Dawn', 'Candida')

This cultivar grows to about 6m tall and flowers in spring as the foliage develops. The young leaves are a deep bronze shade that contrasts well with white to very pale pink flowers.

'Kiku-shidare' ('Shidare Sakura')

'Kiku-shidare' is similar in flower to 'Sekiyama', but it has a weeping growth habit. It is a small tree and is often smothered in bloom from the topmost branches down to near ground level. The flowers can each have up to 50 petals.

'Pink Perfection'

'Pink Perfection' was introduced in 1935 by the famous English nursery Waterer Sons and Crisp. It is a probable 'Sekiyama' × 'Shogetsu' hybrid and has flowers that show characteristics of both parents; the clustered blooms of 'Shogetsu' and the pink of 'Sekiyama'. The flowers are very fully double and the young foliage is coppery.

'Kofugen'

'Kofugen' has graceful semi-weeping branches and a fairly compact growth habit. Its flowers are not really single but semi-double, though the two whorls of petals are flat rather than ruffled, so the effect is not that easy to see.

'Shirotae' ('Mt. Fuji')

This beautiful tree has a spreading growth habit that in the best specimens shows distinctly tiered branches. Its flowers, which are white and semi-double on mature plants, start to open before the foliage expands. They are pleasantly scented.

'Takasago'

Although possibly a Prunus × sieboldii cultivar, 'Takasago' is now more widely listed under the satozakura cherries. It bears clusters of semi-double pink flowers with bronze-red new foliage.

'Ojochin' ('Senriko')

This tree, rather squat when young, but eventually 7m tall bears single white flowers in such profusion as to give the impression of double blooms. Opening from pink buds, the flowers are up to 5cm in diameter and among the later to bloom. 'Ojochin' means large lantern, which aptly describes the shape of the flowers.

Other hybrids, species and their cultivars

'Accolade'

One of the most popular of all garden cherries, 'Accolade' is a Prunus sargentii × Prunus subhirtella hybrid that develops into a flat-topped small tree. In spring it is smothered in pendulous clusters of large, bright pink, semi-double flowers.

Yoshino cherry (Prunus × yedoensis)

Well-known as an avenue tree, this Prunus subhirtella × Prunus speciosa hybrid is smothered in white to very pale pink blooms in spring before or as the new leaves develop. When the flowers are spent they form drifts of fallen petals around the base of the tree. There are several cultivars, such as the pink-flowered 'Akebono', the pale pink 'Awanui' and a weeping form ('Shidare Yoshino' or 'Pendula').

Taiwan cherry (Prunus campanulata)

The Taiwan cherry is valued for its early-flowering habit and fiery autumn foliage. The flowers, which are usually a vivid deep pink, are heavy with nectar and very popular with birds. Taiwan cherry is rather frost tender, though once established it grows well in most coastal areas.

'Okame'

Introduced in 1947 by the British authority Collingwood Ingram, 'Okame' is a hybrid between the Taiwan cherry and the Fuji cherry (Prunus incisa). It is usually quite hardy, though this appears to be variable, and it flowers heavily in early spring. The blooms open in late winter to early spring before the foliage develops and are a bright soft pink. 'Pink Cloud' is a similar though more compact cherry raised by Felix Jury.

Himalayan hill cherry (Prunus cerasoides)

This species is rather frost tender, especially when young, but is a beautiful tree where it grows well. Not only does it produce pink flowers in winter, when little else is in bloom, it has attractive banded bark and the unusual habit of shedding its foliage in late summer then producing new leaves before winter. The variety rubea has deeper pink flowers in spring.

Cyclamen cherry (Prunus cyclamina)

Flowering on bare stems in early spring, the cyclamen cherry is a hardy small to medium-sized tree from central China. The flowers, which are rose pink, are followed by bronze new growth that retains its colour for some weeks before greening. The leaves fall late in autumn and often colour well.

Sargent's cherry (Prunus sargentii)

This large and very hardy Japanese species is probably best known as one of the parents of the very popular hybrid 'Accolade'. It can grow to as much as 18m tall and will withstand at least -25°C. Its 3 to 4cm wide, bright pink flowers are complemented by red-brown bark.

Kurile cherry (Prunus nipponica var. kurilensis)

Usually little more than a large shrub, this Japanese cherry can reach 6m tall under ideal conditions. The flowers, which are soft pink and open from early spring, are backed by red sepals that hang on for a while after the flowers have fallen, thus prolonging the spring colour.

Prunus × sieboldii

This hybrid has given rise to several popular cultivars. The original cross is a slow-growing small tree with semi-double 3 to 4.5cm wide flowers in spring. The new stems are often very glossy.

Cultivation

Flowering cherries are largely undemanding plants that thrive in almost any well-drained soil. For the best display of flowers they need to see at least half-day sun and if sheltered from the wind, the blooms and the autumn foliage will last far longer than if exposed to the full blast of the elements.

Cherries are often seen growing as lawn specimens, but they can be planted in shrubberies, borders or small groves. By choosing a selection that flowers in succession, it's possible to have bloom from mid-winter to early summer.

Cherries are natural companions for azaleas and rhododendrons, and can be used to beautiful effect as shade trees for the smaller varieties of these or to shelter a collection of woodland perennials such as primroses and hostas. Japanese maples also blend well with cherries and they can combine to make a brilliant display of autumn foliage.

Pruning

Flowering cherries seldom need major pruning once established. Young trees can be lightly trimmed to develop a pleasing shape and mature plant may be kept compact by tipping the branches, otherwise just remove any vigorous water shoots and suckers that sprout from the rootstock. Make sure that any pruning is done in summer to prevent infecting the trees with silver leaf fungus (Chondrostereum purpureum). Although this disease is present throughout the year, cherries are most resistant to it in summer.

Pests and diseases

Apart from the already mentioned silver leaf, there isn't really very much that goes wrong with flowering cherries that can't be tolerated. Sawfly larvae (peach or pear slug) sometimes cause damage to the foliage, and older plants sometimes suffer from dieback in their older branches, but these are seldom serious problems. The dieback is sometimes the result of Armillaria, so it may be advisable to insert some of the now readily available Trichoderma dowels into the trunks of any older cherries to prevent the problem developing.

Propagation

Virtually all of the fancier flowering cherries sold for garden use are budded or grafted, usually onto Prunus avium stocks. Although few home gardeners attempt them, these processes are not difficult. Budding especially, is straightforward and is carried out in exactly the same way as budding roses.

Species, including the standard Prunus avium stock, can be raised from seed or from softwood cuttings taken in spring or early summer. The seed should be removed from the fruit by soaking for few days until all the flesh has fallen away. It is usually best to simulate winter conditions by chilling the seed for a few weeks before sowing.

Graft height

When buying flowering cherries you may be faced with a choice of graft height. Which you choose largely depends on the cultivar and the type of growth best suited to your garden. With weeping cherries choose the highest graft possible (usually 8ft [2.4m]), to allow the maximum length of flowering branch. Upright cultivars like 'Sekiyama' are best grafted near ground level so that their erect habit has a chance to develop properly, while graft height in not that important with bushier trees.

The important thing to remember, particularly with high grafted plants, is that the main stem will not gain much height from the grafting point. The stems of a weeping cultivar may grow up before arching down, thus adding some height, but if you choose too low a graft that won' t make much difference. Low-grafted weeping cherries are, however, ideal for large tubs where they can be kept trimmed to shrub-like proportions.

Removing the Mystery of Sending Flowers

Ordering flowers has long been surrounded with uncertainty, mystery and even fear. Will my flower delivery be fresh? How do I choose the right bouquet? Is a floral arrangement even appropriate? Here's everything you need to know to remove the mystery from flower delivery.

Why Hesitate to Buy Flowers? 

It's inconceivable that anyone would hesitate to buy flowers when nearly everyone can remember the last time they received flowers, even if it was thirty years ago. Flowers make that powerful of an impression. Flowers are living. They fill the senses, with color, scent and emotion. They change the atmosphere of a room and are noticed every time you walk by.

Can Flowers Make the Wrong Impression? 

While some gifts can be inappropriate or mis-interpreted for their intension, flowers are more versatile. You can give flowers to your sweetheart, wife, sister, mother, grandmother, boyfriend, neighbor, employee, boss and even someone you wish was your sweetheart with no regrets. You can always give a gift of flowers to show appreciation, friendship or simply neighborliness.

Where we live, in Moscow, Russia, flowers are a solid tradition to bring when invited for dinner, and even though they're so commonplace, they never fail to wow the one receiving them. Flowers open the heart, melt the ice and make an unmistakable statement of affection and appreciation.

Flowers never arouse jealousy because they're a gift that is absolutely pure. I remember when my brother brought flowers to my fiance the first time he met her. I thought it was incredibly kind. The flowers melted her heart, and I was absolutely impressed by his class and sensitivity. What a great first impression!

Of course it must be said that flowers make a wonderful apology. Leaders of the world would do well to send flowers to their adversaries. World peace would reign.

Flowers Aren't Only For Women 

Is there a masculine floral arrangement? I think all flowers can be masculine. Yes, you can send a guy roses. He won't wonder what's up. He'll simply receive your affection and love you forever. If you have a problem with sending a guy flowers, there are plenty of alternatives. All florists have great green plants, small trees, flowering plants and bonsais. How about blue roses for something wild? Any one of them will be received with gratitude.

What's the Occasion? 

That's a question you love to hear! Why? Because you can answer, "Oh, no reason!" That says volumes. Of course don't miss the holidays such as Valentine's Day, birthdays, anniversaries and Mother's Day. You need to order several floral arrangements on Mother's Day for all the mothers in your life.

Don't forget those people you know who might be overlooked. Draw them into your world with flowers. However, flowers can make an even greater impact of love and affection when there is absolutely no occasion attached. Order flowers just because.

What's The Appeal? 

Flowers feed the creative soul in the giver and receiver. Both sending and receiving flowers is living art. Flowers are an expression of the heart of the giver that transcends words. that's why we give flowers, because the colors, shapes and living motion say things which words or even a note card could never say. You can send a card, but it's likely only read once or twice. Yet, flowers exclaim their messages for days. Every glance sends another nuance of love, appreciation and affection that can be expressed in no other way.

What's the Problem with Ordering Flowers? 

Perhaps this is where the fear of ordering flowers lies. Guys, especially, think they need some special skill or knowledge to properly order flowers because it's a creative thing. Not so. You can get expert help from a florist to choose an arrangement that's perfect. Today, there is no reason you can't order on-line and select exactly what you want and have it sent overnight or if you've procrastinated, same-day. On-line ordering takes only a few moments and is incredibly secure and easy.

What kinds of Flowers to Order? 

That's easy. Variety. I've heard it said, "Don't order roses on Valentine's Day." Why? Because it's what's anticipated. Flowers should be a pleasant surprise, so mix it up and order what's in season. Try different colors of roses, such as yellow, pink, salmon or even mixed. Try different arrangements of seasonal flowers and discover the magic of variety and surprise.

In the west, you can pretty much order any number of flowers--a dozen, eighteen, twenty-four or even three roses. Keep in mind that in the east, such as Russia and former Soviet states, you don't want to order an even number. Order only odd numbers of flowers, as even numbers are for funerals.

How to Handle Flowers 

If you're buying a bouquet from your local florist, plan to get your flowers to water fairly quickly. Often, the florist can put the stems in a little tube of water to buy you some time. If you're not going far, an easy tip is simply to hold the flowers with blossoms down allowing gravity to do it's job for the fifteen or twenty minutes it takes to get them to a vase of water.

Order Only Quality Fresh Flowers 

Don't order artificial flowers. It was in style once, and it will hopefully never happen again. Whenever possible order direct from the grower because you insure the freshest possible flowers with minimal handling and damage. Flowers can be delivered from the grower very inexpensively.

Take a Minute to Get Prepared 

When ordering on-line, have the address and phone number handy of the one to whom you're sending a floral arrangement as well as a short message that you'll include. Also have your credit card nearby with the billing address. Order a day or two ahead of when you'd like your flowers delivered. For a Friday delivery, order on Thursday.

Building a Relationship Builds Confidence 

When you order from the same growers each time, you learn their offerings and routine. You come to trust them and know what you'll get with no surprises. Visit our page, Colors of The Romantic Way for flower bouquet ideas for any occasion.

Send Flowers Today 

Why not begin a tradition which you'll never regret? Order flowers for someone now and see how it feels.

Florist Tips

Picking Your Own Flowers

If you are picking your own flowers it is best to do this in the morning or the late evening. Sugar reserves in the stems are at their highest in the mornings or evenings. Ideally the best time is early morning when flower stems are filled with water after the cool night air. You should never pick flowers in the middle of the day when the sun is at it's hottest.

The heat of the sun lowers the water content in the stems and the flowers will not last nearly as long. If it has been raining and the flowers are wet, shake them gently to remove the excess water. Too much water will often damage flowers - especially delicately petalled flowers.

When to Pick Flowers

Most flowers should be picked when they are in bud or half open. You will then have the pleasure of seeing them slowly open up. The colour of the petals should be starting to show. If picked too tightly in bud, they may never open. This is especially true of tulips and roses. The green pointed sepals around the base of the rose should be starting to turn downwards. Irises and daffodils should be half opened. Gladioli should be picked when the bottom three or four florets are open and the top florets are still in bud. Carnations, dahlias, marigolds, hydrangeas, camellias, gerberas and chrysanthemums should be picked when they are fully opened.

Fill a plastic bucket a third to half way with warm water. Warm water should be used as flowers take up warm water more readily than cold. Its preferable to add preservative to the water. (The use of preservatives is fully explained further on). Flowers only drink through the ends of the stems and not through the sides of the stems, and for this reason buckets should not be filled right up to the top with water, as foliage left on stems below the water line will rot and pollute the water. This will cause bacteria and the flowers will die more quickly. The foliage of marigolds, chrysanthemums, stock and daisies send off a particularly strong odour when left standing under water over a period of time.

Take the bucket of water into the garden with you. Use a sharp pair of secateurs and cut the flower stems on an angle - a slanted cut allows a better intake of water. Remove all foliage from the lower portion of the stems which would stand under the water line. Place the flowers immediately in the water.

Never overcrowd flowers. Allow enough air to circulate between each flower. Too many flowers crowded together in a bucket may cause the petals to become squashed and bruised. Place the bucket in a cool dark place and allow the flowers to have a long drink before being arranged. When picking short-stemmed flowers, use a smaller container.

Conditioning Flowers and Foliage

Allow flowers to have a good drink for four to five hours, preferably overnight before arranging. This step is called conditioning. It allows the stems to fill up with water and the flowers will become crisp. These flowers will last twice as long as those that have not been conditioned properly.

Bought Flowers

Bought flowers should be placed in warm water as soon as possible. Remove the wrapping paper, as paper can bruise the flowers and cellophane can cause them to sweat. When cut flowers have been left out of water for any length of time, cells start to form over the cut ends of the stems, which will prevent the stems taking up water readily. To remove this sealed portion, snip off about 2.5cm (1") from the stem ends and then place in water preferably with preservative added, and allow the flowers to have a long drink before arranging.

You may be given flowers when you are away from home. It may well be several hours before you are able to place them in water. The best way to keep flowers fresh is to place them in a strong plastic bag with some water in the bottom. Secure the bag with a rubber band. Another method is to wrap flowers in damp newspaper. If travelling by car, place the flowers in the coolest spot. As soon as you get home, recut the ends of the stems, place them in water and allow them to condition overnight before arranging.

Preservatives

A flower preservative helps destroy bacteria in the water. Flower preservatives are available in garden centres or supermarkets. Another alternative is to use a capful of household bleach in the water. If a preservative is not used, the water needs to be changed and the stems cut on an angle daily. If a preservative is used, the stems do not require recutting and water needs changing only about twice a week. Flowers like freesias, spray carnations and liliums have lots of buds. By using a preservative in the water, it helps develop the buds to open.

Special Treatment

Special treatment should be given to certain flowers to give them the longest life possible. Flowers with woody stems do not take up water readily. Woody-stemmed flowers include lilac, hydrangea, and rhododendrons. To help break down the thick fibres, you can split the ends of the stems upwards for about 5 cm. (2") After this treatment, place the stems in a container filled with warm water and give the flowers a long drink before arranging.

Flowers with Milky Stems

Poppies, poinsettias and dahlias have a milky liquid flowing through their stems. To seal this liquid in and make the flowers last, the ends of the stems should be held over a flame like a candle, gas jet or cigarette lighter. Hold the end of the stem over the flame for about thirty seconds until the end of the stem turns black. The flowers should be held on an angle to protect the delicate petals. Another method is to dip the stems in boiling water for about thirty seconds. Hold the flower heads away on an angle and protect the petals from steam by holding newspaper around the flowers. Place stems immediately in warm water and give flowers a long drink before arranging. If stems need to be recut later on when arranging flowers, you will need to repeat the above steps. To avoid this you could cut the stems to different lengths before sealing the ends of the stems.

Bulb Flowers

Certain flowers grow from a bulb. These include tulips, daffodils, jonquils, narcissus, irises and hyacinths. These flowers often have a white portion at the ends of the stems. Cut this white portion off before conditioning as only the green part of the stem can take up water. Daffodils, jonquils and narcissus have a thick sap which oozes from the end of the stems when they are cut. Wipe it off before placing the stems in water. Keep these flowers separate from other flowers when they are being conditioned as the sap can affect other flowers. The thick sap can clog the ends of stems and prevent the uptake of water. Stand the stems in about 7.5 cm. (3") of water and allow to stand at least six hours before arranging. Bulb flowers prefer shallow water. If daffodils, jonquils and narcissus are placed in deep water, the thick stems can become water logged and the stems shrivel up and the petals go papery.

Wilted Flowers

Wilted flowers can often be revived by standing the stems in fairly hot water right up to the flower heads. After the water has cooled, allow the flowers to stand in the water for a few hours before arranging. Roses can often be perked up by floating the whole stem, head and all, in warm water for half an hour.